Nail Care For Gel Nails – Concerns about gel manicures have hit the headlines. We asked the experts how to play it safe.
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Nail Care For Gel Nails
With high shine, minimal drying time and no chips, it’s no surprise that gel manicures have become a regular fixture for many every fortnight. According to beauty deal app Treatwell, gel nails are now the most popular treatment in the UK. But the practice has attracted a number of negative headlines recently after The Sunday Times reported that dermatologists are seeing an increase in patients suffering from allergic reactions to the gels. This is often caused by improperly timed ‘curing’ of the polish under the UV light. If not set correctly, acrylates – the chemicals that bind the gel – can penetrate the nail bed and surrounding skin.
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This can have huge health implications, according to BBC News, some allergy sufferers are so unable to have medical treatments involving acrylates, such as some dentists and surgeries. The increasing use of at-home gel manicure kits is believed to be part of the problem. A government watchdog – the Office of Product Safety and Standards is now investigating.
So where does all this leave gel fanatics? How do you keep your nails healthy and yourself safe? Well, there is no need to panic. First of all, we would always advise you to go to a reputable salon rather than trying to do it yourself – leave the tricky UV lights to the professionals.
And don’t be tempted to save time between appointments. Yeast infections can occur if you leave gels on for more than two to three weeks. “Leaving your gels on too long can cause the gel to lift and moisture can seep under the nail, creating the perfect ground for bacteria to grow and cause ‘green nail’ [an infection of the nails , leading to a greenish discoloration of nails],’ says nail expert Leighton Denny.
We asked Denny and two other top nail experts for more tips on how to get a safe gel manicure that keeps your nails as healthy as possible.
Gel Chemistry & Gel Nail Basics Course
There are many reputable gel manicure brands, so make sure your technician uses one that you have heard of. “The term ‘Shellac’ [a brand name] has become a bit of a generic term. Many salons say they supply a ‘Shellac’ but they don’t,” says fashion and celebrity manicurist, Marian Newman.
Of rip offs. Real products have very specific instructions for application and removal.” How do you know which ones to choose? “Whatever system the technician uses, it should be a complete system,” says Newman. “This means that the nail prep, the products—the base coat , color and top coat – plus, and most importantly, the UV lamp must all be from the same brand. This is essential for efficient service.”
Leighton Denny told us that the UV lamp is specially designed and equipped with a timer to cure its gel polish of the same brand. You may end up with nails that are not properly cured if the lamp is from a different system.
“Any type of gel polish is most successful on healthy nails,” says Marian. “Using a good nail oil before and during is the best way to care for natural nails.” Marian recommends CND Solar Oil, £6.95, but we also love Nails Inc Superfood Repair Oil, £12.
I Tried
“A nail professional who has actually completed a specific training course will be proud to display their certificate,” says Newman. “A true nail pro will also do their best to educate their client by explaining what they’re doing and the reasons why. They’ll also put a lot of emphasis on home care.”
There are concerns about the effects of UV lamps on nails and the skin on hands, and a recent study suggests that bursts of ultraviolet light can cause DNA damage and cell mutations similar to those found in skin cancer victims. If you often have gel manicures, you may want to invest in a pair of fingerless manicure gloves such as the UV Glove Gel Manicure Gloves, £9.99 for three.
Celebrity nail technician Michelle Class advises you to apply some SPF before your appointment, “Research shows that during a normal gel manicure, your hands are not in the lamp for more than ten minutes once or twice a month. The UV exposure is so low, that the risk of getting melanoma is lower than being in natural sunlight. But regardless, we should all wear sunscreen year-round to protect our skin from UV rays, and I apply SPF to my skin and hands daily.”
Michelle’s SPF of choice is ultra-hydrating Ultra Violette Extreme Screen Hydrating Body and Hand Skinscreen SPF50, £27. We also love Garnier Ambre Solaire Anti-Age Super UV SPF50, £12.
Semi Cured Gel Nail Strips
Biggest cause of damage to nails with a gel manicure. Repeat after me first: don’t take it off. “Do not pick or remove your gel mani yourself – this is what causes peeling, splitting and nail damage. Always have your gels removed by a professional,” says Denny. He recommends that you book your move at the same time as you book your next appointment.
And once you’re in the salon, removal should be pretty quick. “It has to be very quick, and most importantly, no tools should be used after the wrap has been removed,” says Newman. If your technician gets a file out to remove any polish, walk away. “If a tool is used to remove residual product, there is a very high incidence of damage. This is the most common cause of nail damage and there is no need for it. If product is still on the nail, then a cotton ball soaked in remover is used just like polish removal.”
.“Gel manicures should not damage your nails or affect your nail health if you have them applied and removed by a reputable professional. It is also important to remove gel nails every two to three weeks. If you do this, there is no ‘maximum’ number of gel manicures you should limit yourself to.”
But having a complete break from gels isn’t a bad thing, says Denny. “I would advise everyone to give their nails a break and care, strengthen and feed their nails with the nutrients they need with a ‘nail facial’ every two months.”
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“The biggest culprit when it comes to nail damage is dehydration,” says Denny. “This results in dry, dull, brittle, weak nails that tend to crack, peel, crack and flake easily.” His advice for getting nails back to their hydrated best?
And don’t forget your hands as well as your nails, now could be the perfect time to book in for a hand facial. I’m so excited to have Kaiti here today with an at-home DIY gel nail tutorial for us! If you’re not following her on Instagram @nailsbykaiti, you’re missing out on some serious nail inspiration! Since none of us can be pampered at the nail salon right now, we have to pamper ourselves. Here’s Kaiti with everything you need to know to get a great gel nail manicure at home!
Hey skater! Since everyone is locked down and unable to go to the nail salon, I thought I’d give you all a little tutorial on how to do your own gel nails in quarantine! I made a quick video so you get the hang of it, but let’s break it down a bit so you can get the best, long-lasting manicure you can. Shall we?
First of all, we will start with CLEAN, DEHYDRATED nails. I cannot stress this enough! One of the biggest problems when it comes to gel polish not lasting is natural oils on the nail plate, so wash those hands (for the hundredth time today ?) and clean your nails with 100% pure acetone.
How To Prep Your Nails For Gel Polish
For this set, we shaped the nails into a soft square. You want to use a nail file that has 180 GRIT. This will be soft enough to file the free edge of your nail without turning it up too much, but it also has enough grit where you can use it to gently buff (or etch) the top of your nail plate so the gel polish will adhere properly. Be sure to file carefully over the entire nail so that the polish sticks! It should look white and chalky.
One of the common misconceptions is that you need to use a soft buffer to smooth over the nail plate, but if your nail is too smooth, the gel should come off immediately. Using the right grit and a nail file will extend the life of your mani by a long shot!
Next, we need to use some emollient to remove all the dead skin from the nail plate. I get a large bottle of cuticle softener from Sally’s and pour it into an empty dropper bottle for ease of use. Simply apply a few drops to each nail near the cuticle and let it work as it is